Shopping on line can be easy, simple and save you lots of money. It can also take a lot of your time, frustrate you, and result in unwanted purchases. Now the same can be said for regular high street shopping, but with the vast opportunity presented by the Internet it will pay you to spend a few minutes reading this and understanding how to better optimize your Varnish shopping experience:
1. Compare - without doubt the biggest advantage that the Varnish offers shoppers today is the ability to compare thousands of Varnish at a time. This is a great thing, but not necessarily all the time! Too much can be daunting at times so take advantage of the great comparison sites and where possible let them do the hard work for you.
2. Research - if it has been said it will be on the internet. Ignorance is no longer a justifiable reason for buying the wrong thing. Take the time to research in detail everything that you could possible want to know about
3. Testimonials - don't know anybody that has bought a Varnish? Wrong! If the Varnish is good the internet will let you know. Use the Internet as a friend and get testimonials before you buy.
4. Questions - Got a question about Varnish then search the Forums, FAQ's, Blogs etc. Don't be afraid to ask .....
5. Reputation - Never heard of the company selling Varnish? Don't worry, no reason why you should know every company in the world, but you know someone that does! Use the internet to find out what people are saying about Varnish and build up a picture of their reputation for sales, returns, customer service, delivery etc.
6. Returns - still worried that even after all of the above your Varnish wont be what you want? Check out the returns policy. There is so much competition now that someone, somewhere is bound to offer the terms that you are comfortable with.
7. Feedback - happy with your Varnish then let people know, after all you are depending on others people input in your buying decision, so why not give a little back.
8. Security - check for the yellow padlock on the Varnish site before you buy, and the s after http:/ /i.e. https:// = a secure site
9. Contact - got a question about Varnish, or want to leave a comment then check out the sites contact page. Reputable companies have them and respond.
10. Payment - ready to pay for your Varnish, then use your credit card or PayPal! Be aware of companies that don't accept them, there may be genuine reasons but given the huge amount of choice you have when buying online there is no reason at all not to buy via credit card or PayPal.
Varnish is a Transparency (optics), hard, protective finish or film primarily used in wood finishing but also for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a
drying oil, a resin, and a Turpentine substitute or
solvent. Varnish finishes are usually glossy but may be designed to produce satin or semi-gloss sheens by the addition of "flatting" agents. Varnish has little or no
color, is transparent, and has no added
pigment, as opposed to
paints or
wood stains, which contain
pigment and generally range from Opacity (optics) to Opacity (optics). Varnishes are also applied over wood stains as a final step to achieve a film for gloss and protection. Some products are marketed as a combined stain and varnish.
After being applied, the film-forming substances in varnishes either harden directly, as soon as the solvent has fully
evaporated, or harden after evaporation of the solvent through certain
curing processes, primarily chemical reaction between oils and oxygen from the air (autoxidation) and chemical reactions between components of the varnish. Resin varnishes "dry" by evaporation of the solvent and harden almost immediately upon drying. Acrylic and waterborne varnishes "dry" upon evaporation of the water but experience an extended
curing period. Oil, polyurethane, and epoxy varnishes remain liquid even after evaporation of the solvent but quickly begin to
cure, undergoing successive stages from liquid or syrupy, to gummy, to tacky, to "dry to the touch", to hard. Environmental factors such as heat and humidity play a very large role in the drying and curing times of varnishes. In classic varnish the cure rate depends on the type of oil used and, to some extent, on the ratio of oil to resin. The drying and curing time of all varnishes may be speeded up by exposure to an energy source such as sunlight or heat. Other than acrylic and waterborne types, all varnishes are highly flammable in their liquid state due to the presence of flammable solvents and oils.
Components of Classic Varnish
Drying oil
There are many different types of drying oils, including linseed oil,
tung oil, and
walnut oil. These contain high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Resin
Resins that are used in varnishes include
amber, dammar, copal,
rosin {pine resin},
sandarac,
balsam, and others. The word
varnish probably derives ultimately via ancient Greek from a placename of a city in ancient
Libya where resins from the trees of once existing forests were sold. In modern English the ancient city is referred to as
Berenice; otherwise the existing city in modern Libya is called
Benghazi.
Turpentine or solvent
Traditionally, natural (organic) turpentine was used as the thinner or solvent, but has been replaced by several mineral based
turpentine substitutes such as
white spirit or "paint thinner".
Types
Violin
For violin varnish,
walnut oil and linseed oil are most often used in combination with amber, copal,
rosin or other resins. The oil is prepared by cooking or exposing to air and sunlight. The refined resin is typically available as a translucent solid and is then "run" by cooking or literally melting it in a pot over heat without solvents. The thickened oil and prepared resin are then cooked together and thinned with turpentine (away from open flame) into a brushable solution.
Resin
Most resin or "gum" varnishes consist of a natural, plant- or insect-derived substance dissolved in a
solvent. The two main types of natural varnishes are
spirit varnish (which uses alcohol as a solvent) and
turpentine or petroleum-based varnish. Some resins are soluble in both alcohol and turpentine. Generally, petroleum solvents, i.e.
mineral spirits or
paint thinner, can substitute for turpentine. The resins include
amber, dammar, copal, rosin {pine resin},
sandarac, balsam,
shellac, and a multitude of
lacquers. Chemical synthesis resins such as phenolic resin are typically employed as a secondary component in certain varnishes and paints. Over centuries, many recipes were developed which involved the combination of resins, oils, and other ingredients such as certain
waxes. These were believed to impart special tonal qualities to musical instruments and thus were sometimes carefully guarded secrets. The interaction of different ingredients is difficult to predict or reproduce, so expert finishers were often prized professionals.
Shellac
Shellac is a very widely used single component resin varnish that is alcohol soluble. It is not used outdoors or where it will come into repeated contact with water such as around a sink or bathtub. The source of shellac resin is a brittle or flaky secretion of the female lac insect,
Coccus lacca, found in the forests of
Assam and
Thailand and harvested from the bark of the trees where she deposits it to provide a sticky hold on the trunk. Shellac is the basis of
French polish, a difficult technique that produces an inimitable sheen, and which for centuries has been the preferred finish for fine furniture. Specified "dewaxed" shellac has been processed to remove the waxy substances from original shellac and can be used as a
primer and sanding-sealer substrate for other finishes such as polyurethanes, alkyds, oils, and acrylics.
Shellac varnish is typically available in "clear" and "amber" (or "orange") varieties. Other natural color shades such as ruby and yellow are available from specialty pigment or woodworker's supply outlets. "White pigmented" shellac primer paint is widely available in retail outlets, billed as a fast-drying interior primer "problem solver", in that it adheres to a variety of surfaces and seals off odors and smoke stains. Shellac clean-up may be done with alcohol or ammonia cleansers.
Alkyd
Typically, modern commercially produced varnishes employ some form of
alkyd for producing a protective film.
Alkyds are chemically modified vegetable oils which operate well in a wide range of conditions and can be engineered to speed up the cure rate and thus harden faster. Better (and more expensive) exterior varnishes employ alkyds made from high performance oils and contain
UV-absorbers; this improves gloss-retention and extends the lifetime of the finish. Various resins may also be combined with alkyds as part of the formula for typical "oil" varnishes that are commercially available.
Spar Varnish
Spar varnish (also called
Marine (ocean) varnish) is high quality, waterproof, and sunlight-resistant varnish named for its use on
ship or
boat spars and other woodwork where a glossy finish is desired. Alkyd-modified
tung oil and
phenolic resins are often used. Better grades of spar varnish have substantially higher amounts of uv-absorbers added.
Drying Oils
By definition, drying oils, such as linseed and
tung oil, are not true varnishes though often in modern terms they accomplish the same thing.
Drying oils
cure through an exothermic
reaction between the polyunsaturated portion of the oil and
oxygen from the air. Originally, the term "varnish" referred to finishes that were made entirely of resin dissolved in suitable solvents, either ethanol (alcohol) or turpentine. The advantage to finishers in previous centuries was that resin varnishes had a very rapid cure rate compared to oils; in most cases they are cured practically as soon as the solvent has fully evaporated. By contrast, untreated or "raw" oils may take weeks or months to cure, depending on ambient temperature and other environmental factors. In modern terms, "boiled" or partially
polymerized drying oils with added siccatives or dryers (chemical
catalysts) have cure times of less than 24 hours. However, certain non-toxic byproducts of the curing process are emitted from the oil film even after it is dry to the touch and over a considerable period of time. It has long been a tradition to combine drying oils with resins to obtain favorable features of both substances.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane varnishes are typically hard, abrasion-resistant, and durable coatings. They are popular for hardwood floors but are considered by some to be difficult or unsuitable for finishing furniture or other detailed pieces. Polyurethanes are comparable in hardness to certain alkyds but generally form a tougher film. Compared to simple oil or shellac varnishes, polyurethane varnish forms a harder, decidedly tougher and more waterproof film. However, a thick film of ordinary polyurethane may de-laminate if subjected to heat or shock, fracturing the film and leaving white patches. This tendency increases with long exposure to sunlight or when it is applied over soft woods like pine. This is also in part due to polyurethane's lesser penetration into the wood. Various priming techniques are employed to overcome this problem, including the use of certain oil varnishes, specified "dewaxed" shellac, clear penetrating
epoxy sealer, or "oil-modified" polyurethane designed for the purpose. Polyurethane varnish may also lack the "hand-rubbed" lustre of drying oils such as linseed or
tung oil; in contrast, however, it is capable of a much faster and higher "build" of film, accomplishing in two coats what may require multiple applications of oil. Polyurethane may also be applied over a straight oil finish, but because of the relatively slow curing time of oils and the emission of certain chemical byproducts, care must be taken that the oils are sufficiently cured to accept the polyurethane.
Unlike
drying oils and
alkyds which cure, after evaporation of the solvent, upon reaction with oxygen from the air, polyurethane coatings
cure after
evaporation of the
solvent by a variety of reactions of
chemicals within the original mix, or by reaction with moisture from the air. Certain polyurethane products are "hybrids" and combine different aspects of their parent components. "Oil-modified" polyurethanes, whether water-borne or solvent-borne, are currently the most widely used wood floor finishes.
Exterior use of polyurethane varnish may be problematic due to its heightened susceptibility to deterioration through ultra-violet light exposure. It must be noted, however, that all clear or transluscent varnishes, and indeed all film-
polymer coatings (e.g.
paint,
stain, epoxy, synthetic
plastic, etc.) are susceptible to this damage in varying degrees. Pigments in paints and stains protect against UV damage.
UV-absorbers are added to polyurethane and other varnishes (e.g. spar varnish) to work against
UV damage but are decreasingly effective over the course of 1-4 years, depending on the quantity and quality of UV-absorbers added as well as the severity and duration of sun exposure. Water exposure, humidity, temperature extremes, and other environmental factors affect all finishes. By contrast, wooden items retrieved from the
Egyptian pyramids have a remarkably new and fresh appearance after 4000 years of storage. Even there, however, fungal colonies were present, and mildew and fungus are another category of entities which attack varnish. In other words, the only coat of varnish with near perfect durability is the one stored in a vacuum, in darkness, at a low and unvarying temperature. Otherwise, care and upkeep are required.
Many modern polyurethanes have been formulated to overcome a variety of problems that plagued earlier polys.
Lacquer
The word
lacquer refers to quick-drying, solvent-based varnishes or paints. Although their names may be similarly derived, Lacquer is
not the same as
Shellac and is not dissolved in alcohol. Lacquer is dissolved in Lacquer Thinner, which is a highly-flammable solvent. Lacquer is typically sprayed on, within a
spray booth that evacuates overspray and minimizes the risk of combustion.
Acrylic
acryl group varnishes are typically water-borne varnishes with a very low
refractive index or high degree of
clarity. Varnishes offer dust-resistance and a harder surface than bare acrylic paint – they sometimes have the benefit of ultraviolet light resistors, which help protect artwork from fading in exposure to light. Acrylic varnish should be applied using an isolation coat (a permanent, protective barrier between the acrylic paint and the varnish, preferably a soft, glossy gel medium) to make varnish removal and overall conservation easier.
Two-Part
Various
epoxy have been formulated as varnishes or floor finishes whereby two components are mixed directly before application. All two-part epoxies have a "pot-life" or "working time" during which the epoxy can be used. Usually the pot-life is a matter of a few hours but is also highly temperature dependent. Both water-borne and solvent based epoxies are used.
See also
References
- Bob Flexner (1993). Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish. Rodale Press: Emmaus, PA. ISBN 0-87596-566-0
External links
- The 17th century varnish of Lorenz Mizler
- Tung and Linseed Oils by Steven D. Russel
Varnish is a Transparency (optics), hard, protective finish or film primarily used in
wood finishing but also for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and a Turpentine substitute or solvent. Varnish finishes are usually glossy but may be designed to produce satin or semi-gloss sheens by the addition of "flatting" agents. Varnish has little or no
color, is transparent, and has no added pigment, as opposed to paints or
wood stains, which contain
pigment and generally range from Opacity (optics) to Opacity (optics). Varnishes are also applied over wood stains as a final step to achieve a film for gloss and protection. Some products are marketed as a combined stain and varnish.
After being applied, the film-forming substances in varnishes either harden directly, as soon as the solvent has fully
evaporated, or harden after evaporation of the solvent through certain curing processes, primarily chemical reaction between oils and oxygen from the air (
autoxidation) and chemical reactions between components of the varnish. Resin varnishes "dry" by evaporation of the solvent and harden almost immediately upon drying. Acrylic and waterborne varnishes "dry" upon evaporation of the water but experience an extended
curing period. Oil, polyurethane, and epoxy varnishes remain liquid even after evaporation of the solvent but quickly begin to cure, undergoing successive stages from liquid or syrupy, to gummy, to tacky, to "dry to the touch", to hard. Environmental factors such as heat and humidity play a very large role in the drying and curing times of varnishes. In classic varnish the cure rate depends on the type of oil used and, to some extent, on the ratio of oil to resin. The drying and
curing time of all varnishes may be speeded up by exposure to an energy source such as sunlight or heat. Other than acrylic and waterborne types, all varnishes are highly flammable in their liquid state due to the presence of flammable solvents and oils.
Components of Classic Varnish
Drying oil
There are many different types of drying oils, including linseed oil, tung oil, and walnut oil. These contain high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Resin
Resins that are used in varnishes include amber, dammar, copal,
rosin {pine resin}, sandarac,
balsam, and others. The word
varnish probably derives ultimately via ancient Greek from a
placename of a city in ancient Libya where resins from the trees of once existing forests were sold. In modern English the ancient city is referred to as Berenice; otherwise the existing city in modern Libya is called
Benghazi.
Turpentine or solvent
Traditionally, natural (organic) turpentine was used as the thinner or solvent, but has been replaced by several mineral based
turpentine substitutes such as
white spirit or "paint thinner".
Types
Violin
For violin varnish, walnut oil and linseed oil are most often used in combination with amber, copal,
rosin or other resins. The oil is prepared by cooking or exposing to air and sunlight. The refined resin is typically available as a translucent solid and is then "run" by cooking or literally melting it in a pot over heat without solvents. The thickened oil and prepared resin are then cooked together and thinned with turpentine (away from open flame) into a brushable solution.
Resin
Most resin or "gum" varnishes consist of a natural, plant- or insect-derived substance dissolved in a
solvent. The two main types of natural varnishes are
spirit varnish (which uses
alcohol as a solvent) and turpentine or
petroleum-based varnish. Some resins are soluble in both alcohol and turpentine. Generally, petroleum solvents, i.e. mineral spirits or
paint thinner, can substitute for turpentine. The resins include amber,
dammar, copal, rosin {pine resin},
sandarac, balsam, shellac, and a multitude of lacquers. Chemical synthesis resins such as
phenolic resin are typically employed as a secondary component in certain varnishes and paints. Over centuries, many recipes were developed which involved the combination of resins, oils, and other ingredients such as certain
waxes. These were believed to impart special tonal qualities to musical instruments and thus were sometimes carefully guarded secrets. The interaction of different ingredients is difficult to predict or reproduce, so expert finishers were often prized professionals.
Shellac
Shellac is a very widely used single component resin varnish that is
alcohol soluble. It is not used outdoors or where it will come into repeated contact with water such as around a sink or bathtub. The source of shellac resin is a brittle or flaky secretion of the female lac insect,
Coccus lacca, found in the forests of
Assam and Thailand and harvested from the bark of the trees where she deposits it to provide a sticky hold on the trunk. Shellac is the basis of French polish, a difficult technique that produces an inimitable sheen, and which for centuries has been the preferred finish for fine furniture. Specified "dewaxed" shellac has been processed to remove the waxy substances from original shellac and can be used as a
primer and sanding-sealer substrate for other finishes such as polyurethanes, alkyds, oils, and acrylics.
Shellac varnish is typically available in "clear" and "amber" (or "orange") varieties. Other natural color shades such as ruby and yellow are available from specialty pigment or woodworker's supply outlets. "White pigmented" shellac primer paint is widely available in retail outlets, billed as a fast-drying interior primer "problem solver", in that it adheres to a variety of surfaces and seals off odors and smoke stains. Shellac clean-up may be done with alcohol or ammonia cleansers.
Alkyd
Typically, modern commercially produced varnishes employ some form of alkyd for producing a protective film. Alkyds are chemically modified vegetable oils which operate well in a wide range of conditions and can be engineered to speed up the cure rate and thus harden faster. Better (and more expensive) exterior varnishes employ alkyds made from high performance oils and contain
UV-absorbers; this improves gloss-retention and extends the lifetime of the finish. Various resins may also be combined with alkyds as part of the formula for typical "oil" varnishes that are commercially available.
Spar Varnish
Spar varnish (also called
Marine (ocean) varnish) is high quality, waterproof, and sunlight-resistant varnish named for its use on
ship or
boat spars and other woodwork where a glossy finish is desired. Alkyd-modified
tung oil and phenolic resins are often used. Better grades of spar varnish have substantially higher amounts of uv-absorbers added.
Drying Oils
By definition, drying oils, such as linseed and
tung oil, are not true varnishes though often in modern terms they accomplish the same thing. Drying oils
cure through an exothermic reaction between the polyunsaturated portion of the oil and
oxygen from the air. Originally, the term "varnish" referred to finishes that were made entirely of resin dissolved in suitable solvents, either ethanol (alcohol) or turpentine. The advantage to finishers in previous centuries was that resin varnishes had a very rapid cure rate compared to oils; in most cases they are cured practically as soon as the solvent has fully evaporated. By contrast, untreated or "raw" oils may take weeks or months to cure, depending on ambient temperature and other environmental factors. In modern terms, "boiled" or partially polymerized drying oils with added siccatives or dryers (chemical catalysts) have cure times of less than 24 hours. However, certain non-toxic byproducts of the curing process are emitted from the oil film even after it is dry to the touch and over a considerable period of time. It has long been a tradition to combine drying oils with resins to obtain favorable features of both substances.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane varnishes are typically hard, abrasion-resistant, and durable coatings. They are popular for hardwood floors but are considered by some to be difficult or unsuitable for finishing furniture or other detailed pieces. Polyurethanes are comparable in hardness to certain alkyds but generally form a tougher film. Compared to simple oil or shellac varnishes, polyurethane varnish forms a harder, decidedly tougher and more waterproof film. However, a thick film of ordinary polyurethane may de-laminate if subjected to heat or shock, fracturing the film and leaving white patches. This tendency increases with long exposure to sunlight or when it is applied over soft woods like pine. This is also in part due to polyurethane's lesser penetration into the wood. Various priming techniques are employed to overcome this problem, including the use of certain oil varnishes, specified "dewaxed"
shellac, clear penetrating
epoxy sealer, or "oil-modified" polyurethane designed for the purpose. Polyurethane varnish may also lack the "hand-rubbed" lustre of
drying oils such as linseed or
tung oil; in contrast, however, it is capable of a much faster and higher "build" of film, accomplishing in two coats what may require multiple applications of oil. Polyurethane may also be applied over a straight oil finish, but because of the relatively slow curing time of oils and the emission of certain chemical byproducts, care must be taken that the oils are sufficiently cured to accept the polyurethane.
Unlike drying oils and alkyds which cure, after evaporation of the solvent, upon reaction with
oxygen from the air, polyurethane coatings
cure after
evaporation of the
solvent by a variety of
reactions of
chemicals within the original mix, or by reaction with moisture from the air. Certain polyurethane products are "hybrids" and combine different aspects of their parent components. "Oil-modified" polyurethanes, whether water-borne or solvent-borne, are currently the most widely used wood floor finishes.
Exterior use of polyurethane varnish may be problematic due to its heightened susceptibility to deterioration through ultra-violet light exposure. It must be noted, however, that all clear or transluscent varnishes, and indeed all film-
polymer coatings (e.g.
paint, stain,
epoxy, synthetic
plastic, etc.) are susceptible to this damage in varying degrees. Pigments in paints and stains protect against UV damage.
UV-absorbers are added to polyurethane and other varnishes (e.g. spar varnish) to work against UV damage but are decreasingly effective over the course of 1-4 years, depending on the quantity and quality of UV-absorbers added as well as the severity and duration of sun exposure. Water exposure, humidity, temperature extremes, and other environmental factors affect all finishes. By contrast, wooden items retrieved from the Egyptian pyramids have a remarkably new and fresh appearance after 4000 years of storage. Even there, however, fungal colonies were present, and mildew and fungus are another category of entities which attack varnish. In other words, the only coat of varnish with near perfect durability is the one stored in a vacuum, in darkness, at a low and unvarying temperature. Otherwise, care and upkeep are required.
Many modern polyurethanes have been formulated to overcome a variety of problems that plagued earlier polys.
Lacquer
The word
lacquer refers to quick-drying, solvent-based varnishes or paints. Although their names may be similarly derived, Lacquer is
not the same as
Shellac and is not dissolved in alcohol. Lacquer is dissolved in Lacquer Thinner, which is a highly-flammable solvent. Lacquer is typically sprayed on, within a
spray booth that evacuates overspray and minimizes the risk of combustion.
Acrylic
acryl group varnishes are typically water-borne varnishes with a very low refractive index or high degree of clarity. Varnishes offer dust-resistance and a harder surface than bare acrylic paint – they sometimes have the benefit of ultraviolet light resistors, which help protect artwork from fading in exposure to light. Acrylic varnish should be applied using an isolation coat (a permanent, protective barrier between the acrylic paint and the varnish, preferably a soft, glossy gel medium) to make varnish removal and overall conservation easier.
Two-Part
Various
epoxy have been formulated as varnishes or floor finishes whereby two components are mixed directly before application. All two-part epoxies have a "pot-life" or "working time" during which the epoxy can be used. Usually the pot-life is a matter of a few hours but is also highly temperature dependent. Both water-borne and solvent based epoxies are used.
See also
References
- Bob Flexner (1993). Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish. Rodale Press: Emmaus, PA. ISBN 0-87596-566-0
External links
- The 17th century varnish of Lorenz Mizler
- Tung and Linseed Oils by Steven D. Russel
Definition: varnish from Online Medical Dictionary
The Online Medical Dictionary is a searchable dictionary of definitions from medicine, science and technology.
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Varnish - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Varnish is a transparent, hard, protective finish or film primarily used in wood finishing but also for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a ...
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varnish - Hutchinson encyclopedia article about varnish
In art and crafts, a transparent solution of resins or resinous gums dissolved in linseed oil, turpentine, or other solvents, or the synthetic equivalents.